WHY WINE

Quality from Thailand

CHATEAU D'O

Let's suppose you are trying to do something nice, something that won't damage the environment but will eventually benefit the country and improve its image. You'd think, perhaps, that the authorities might say, "Bravo! How can we help?" But perhaps they won't. They might slap you with a big tax bill, and then make it difficult for you to advertise your product.

This is exactly what's happening to Thai wineries. And it's happening at a time when wine made in Thailand is beginning to make inroads into foreign markets and local restaurants. And at a time when medical opinion accepts that the moderate consumption of wine can be good for your health.

Protecting people from themselves and trying to keep them in good health is admirable, and campaigns against drunk driving, and drunken behaviour generally, should be supported. But wine is not the beverage to blame: how many people, Thai or foreign, get drunk and behave dangerously through drinking wine?

A few days ago I received the February issue of an American magazine available on subscription, International Living. It informs its readers about attractive investments in real estate and indicates nice places around the world in which to live and/or enjoy retirement. Between articles on Latin America, Italy and the Philippines, I found a short article with the title, "Thai wines and spicy food". It noted that our local wine industry produces a million bottles a year and employs some 1,200 men and women.

The article mentioned Chateau de Loei and Siam Winery's "Columbad." That, of course, should have read, "Colombard", but while you get the feeling that the author didn't know enough about this pleasant white wine, at least he or she was taking Thai wine seriously.

I recently tasted some whites from two of the best wineries in the kingdom: Granmonte and PB. So far, I have been more impressed by the reds than by the whites. The main problem, to me at least, was that they lacked acidity while having too much of that toasty flavour that is characteristic of so many warm climate white wines.

However, Granmonte's 2004 Kirimaya Chenin Blanc is a good wine, with some tropical flavours, and a big step towards a Thai white that can be enjoyed on its own. I still prefer more acidity and less toasted nut flavour, but I would be ready to try it again.

The wine is named for a golf course and spa, and like all Granmonte wines, it is bottled at the nearby Khao Yai winery. I paid 699 baht for this bottle.

PB Khao Yai's 2004 Chenin Blanc cost me 399 baht and is quite different in character. More simple maybe but with a nice balance of fruit including hints of citrus, and acidity, plus a little je ne sais quoi which I won't attempt to define, but which must come from the beautiful Khao Yai Valley itself.

It should go well with seafood and even oysters, as it is quite dry. I found both wines at Tops on Sukhumvit Soi 55, where there is an impressive selection of Thai wines.

I plan to continue my research into Thai wine and drink more - although in moderation, of course!

At the recent Bangkok Celebration of Wine I mentioned in my previous column, I made it my duty as well as a pleasure to taste the only Thai wines present, reds from the Chateau des Brumes. This is the third very good winery in the Khao Yai area, probably the best region for wine in the country.

Its 2003 Wang Nam Keow Red Reserve is one of the few bargains available to the poor amateur: I paid 499 baht at Foodland for the few bottles I still have left. This is a wine I enjoy serving to unsuspecting visitors from abroad without telling them where it comes from. They have all been pleasantly surprised.

The best of the Chateau des Brumes wines I have tasted is Prestige, and for me, it's one of the finest Thai wines, period. With this well balanced blend of 85% local shiraz and 15% cabernet sauvignon (the latter coming from France), winemaker Jacques Bacou has succeeded in crafting a wine that can rival many European quality reds.

I bought a bottle at the fair for 1,000 baht, thanks to the knowledgeable lady presiding over the Chateau des Brumes booth. The retail price today will probably be more like 1,250 baht. This is another bottle I shall keep to serve to an unsuspecting overseas visitor - from France maybe. I already know that he or she will be pleasantly surprised, and impressed by the produce of our local wineries.

Bangkok Post

Last Updated : Sunday April 08, 2007