EATING OUT

Tasty Taiwanese tucker

A wide selection of good food for vegetarians and meat-eaters alike

Reviewed by VANNIYA SRIANGURA

Demi, 21/15 Sukhumvit Soi 49, Tel 02-662-6485, Open daily 11am-10pm

Taiwanese food is often associated with uninspiring vegetable-based cuisine. In reality, only half of that is true; at least at Demi, a great little restaurant I checked out a few weeks ago.

Because so many people in Taiwan are devoted vegetarians, it should come as no surprise that much of the food you'll find in the country is meatless, light and healthy. But that doesn't change the fact that authentic Taiwanese cuisine is as gastronomically enticing as any other cuisine in the world.

"Simple yet tasty" probably best describes the distinctive national fare. The preparation requires great culinary skill and is sometimes time-consuming, but there's no elaborate presentation and only a minimum of ingredients are used. And compared to most mainstream Chinese food served in Thailand, Taiwanese is generally much less oily.

Demi restaurant - named after the Taiwanese chef/owner, for whom Bangkok has been home for the past nine years - is one of a few Taiwanese eateries in town. Though the 150-seater eatery has only been open at its current location for less than a year, Demi herself is far from being a new kid on the block. In 2000 she helped open Bangkok's very first Taiwanese fine-dining restaurant, Water 1999, before launching her own eponymous eatery on Thong Lo three years later.

The latest Demi outlet occupies the corner unit of a modern-looking commercial townhouse in the middle of Soi 49. The setting is casual and simple with only six tables in the ground floor dining room, and four big tables up on the first and second floors.

At Demi, choosing what to order can be pretty difficult. Not because of the intricacy of the cuisine, or from trying to understand the menu (which comes complete with pictures of almost every dish) but for the wide variety of mouthwatering items on offer. Those who expect to find a limited selection of bland-tasting, health-orientated dishes will be stunned to discover about 100 selections of meat dishes, with the same number of items catering to those with a meat-free diet regimen as well.

Diners should, however, be aware that asking the restaurant staff for suggestions may not prove particularly helpful, as they'll tell you that everything on the menu is popular. And, to be honest, they're right.

It's a good idea to begin your healthy Taiwanese feast with deep-fried beancurd (60 baht). The dish looks quite ordinary, with plump tofu accompanied by light and brown sauce, but the taste is fantastically good.

Another interesting starter is the pan-fried leek, pork and shrimp dumplings (90 baht). Served upside-down with two types of sauce on the side, the dumplings are a real crowd pleaser.

Described by the menu as spiced pork, number one on my don't miss list has to be khao nah moo phalo (70 baht). Literally meaning rice with palo pork topping, the dish presents three layers of pork with sweet and salty brown gravy. The meat with the fat intact was slick and soft, while the pleasant gravy was almost as good as that found at my favourite kha moo place on Silom Road.

Fancying some seafood, we ordered stir-fried hoy talab, or clams with chilli sauce (150 baht). The shellfish was fresh and the sauce pungent, with just a hint of spiciness.

The restaurant also offers lunch sets (120-150 baht), with your choice of entree (16 selections of rice and noodle dishes), two side dishes, a drink and a dessert. I had the beef noodle soup, which came with cold, soft beancurd topped with preserved egg and pickled cabbage, iced tea and pearl balls in chilled syrup.

The dish was enjoyable, with slices of tender braised beef and tendon in a rather mellow noodle soup, and the side dishes were truly enjoyable.

Demi has recently launched a rice box delivery service, with a dozen selections on offer at 70 baht. We tried rice with a combination of toppings - two pieces of pork chop, a few slices of red barbecue pork and Chinese sausage - and were pleased with what we had. The pork chop, marinated and coated with parmesan cheese before being deep-fried, offered a tender and salty centre and a crunchy crust. The homemade BBQ pork was thick and juicy and probably one of the best I've ever had in Bangkok, while the imported sausage was sweet and meaty.

From the vegetarian menu, I only sampled one dish: stir-fried wheat noodles with mushrooms (100 baht), which was exceptional. Though it looked mushy and boring, the dish turned out to be a real culinary showcase. A generous portion of noodles came bathed in thick sauce, which included chopped basil leaves, giving the dish its appetising, aromatic distinction. The restaurant is located 200 metres down Sukhumvit Soi 49 and has limited parking.

Bangkok Post

Last Updated : Sunday April 08, 2007