Summer essentials

Sunscreens and whitening agents are the key to ensuring healthy skin during the scorching months

NOKO

Sizzling summer - it's a prime time for promoting bikinis plus depilatories as well as sunscreens along with whitening products. Not all Asian ladies will be buying sexy two-piece beachwear or hair-removing cream but most of them will probably be interested in updating their summer skincare.

Whitening formulas with new active ingredients in particular are relaunched during this scorching season. A misapprehension (because of the term whitening), they were regarded as skin colour changing agents, with outrageous claims such as being able to turn a typical Thai complexion into a porcelain Caucasian skin colour. Many Asian women are now smarter about whitening products and realistically use them to combat dark spots or hyperpigmentation.

Korean dermatologist, Dr Kim Dong-Kun pointed out that hyperpigmentation is a major concern for Asian women, especially during summer when UV exposure is at its greatest. All skin is susceptible to discolouration, however it is much more common in individuals who have more melanin in their skin. For example, Asians have more active melanocytes or pigment making cells than Caucasians.

"These melanocytes produce a large amount of pigment under normal conditions but the melanin production increases even further when the melanocytes are aggravated by external aggressors like the sun, as well as other factors like hormones and genetics," explained Dr Dong-Kun.

A common form of non-genetic hyperpigmentation, age spots or liver spots are small darkened patches, usually found on the face, hands and other areas frequently exposed to the sun. Age spots are extremely common after the age of 40 but limiting sun exposure before the age of 20 is a major factor in determining how your skin will look later in life and it can help prevent age spots from enlargening or darkening.

With the rage for whitening products to fade skin blemishes, do they really work?

Dr Dong-Kun noted that epidermal hyperpigmentation can be controlled with whitening products but deeper types cannot really be treated with either topical creams or even dermabrasion or lasers. In general, certain treatments used alone, such as chemical peels or microdermabrasion, may seem to produce immediate results, but only last the length of time it takes for the pigmentation to return.

"A multi-pronged approach, including using skincare like Clinique's whitening range, is the most reliable way to treat hyperpigmentation. Since spots do come back, the most effective method to prevent the occurrence and aggravation of repigmentation after treatment is the effective use of a broad spectrum sunscreen on a daily basis," he said.

P&G principal scientist, Dr Colin D'Silva, notes that there are whitening agents that can actually intervene in melanin production. However, a whitening product should always be coupled with a sunscreen to maintain healthy skin. "Melanin is a natural sunblock, a natural protector of the skin. Using effective whitening agents means that we will have less melanin, which also means that we have less protection from the sun. Using a sunscreen or a whitening product containing sunscreen is a must," he said.

The beauty scientist emphasised that it's more important to have healthy skin than fair skin. To brown beauties who still want to be white, Dr D'Silva advised, "From the day the skin is exposed to UV light, melanocytes are triggered to produce melanin and the skin gets darker. Whitening products can help you achieve a lighter complexion to a certain extent, but we can't be fairer than the skin we were born with."

Bangkok Post

Last Updated : Sunday April 08, 2007